𝑨 𝑽𝒆𝒓𝒕𝒊𝒄𝒂𝒍 𝑽𝒊𝒏 𝑺𝒂𝒏𝒕𝒐 𝑻𝒂𝒔𝒕𝒊𝒏𝒈 𝑭𝒊𝒍𝒍𝒆𝒅 𝒘𝒊𝒕𝒉 𝑴𝒂𝒈𝒊𝒄

...at Capezzana winery in Carmignano in Tuscany.

Capezzana is a historic estate in Carmignano, Tuscany, known for its wines deeply connected to the local territory. For the past few years, they have organized a vertical tasting every autumn to highlight the uniqueness and evolution of their wines. Each tasting focuses on a specific wine from their selection. These tastings are highly educational and provide an excellent opportunity to learn more about Capezzana and the history of Tuscan wine.

Last December, they held a vertical tasting of their renowned Vin Santo, showcasing six different vintages. This event unfolded a story of tradition, change, and success through each vintage of Vin Santo.

Vin Santo can be challenging to sell, but it was encouraging to see the optimism surrounding this dessert wine. Capezzana is well-known for its Vin Santo and successfully sells out its limited production. They have surely conducted thorough market research and established strong sales connections. However, what truly sets their Vin Santo apart is its deep-rooted connection to the history and values of Tuscany and the estate itself. This wine embodies the history, symbolism, and significance of the region, as well as its traditions, people, and values. It continually evolves in harmony over time.

Capezzana, a Historical Winery in Carmignano

Capezzana has a rich history and is regarded as one of the most impressive estates in Carmignano and Tuscany. A historical document, a rental contract, indicates that wine and olive oil have been produced at Capezzana since 804 A.D. Winemaking in the Carmignano area dates back to the Etruscan era when grapes and olives were first cultivated. However, the estate was not owned by the Contini Bonacossi family during that time; they purchased it in the early 20th century.

The Carmignano area was included in the decree by the Grand Duke of Tuscany Cosimo III in 1716, which legally defined the areas for quality wine production in Tuscany. The Contini Bonacossi family has continually leveraged the rich history of Capezzana and Carmignano while developing a modern and more data-driven approach to winemaking and market acquisition.

The Vertical Tasting of Vin Santo

We tasted six vintages of Vin Santo – 1985, 1996, 2001, 2007, 2013, and 2017 – that can be divided into three phases or styles. The various phases also reflect the trends in the periods they were/are produced. The Vin Santo di Carmignano can be produced with Trebbiano Toscano and Malvasia bianca lunga alone or combined to a minimum of 75%, while the other 25% can be local white grapes. The Vin Santo di Carmignano DOC Riserva of Capezzana is made with Trebbiano Toscano and San Colombano. The grapes are generally dried until January or early February. The must then does fermentation and maturation in small barrels – caratelli – for at least five years.

Phase 1 – 1985 & 1996

These two vintages were still vinified as white wine, that is the fermentation was done in steel vats for 2 months before the must was transferred to the caratelli. Benedetta Contini Bonacossi, the sibling in charge of the Vin Santo making, says that the 1985 vintage is a wine all in its own category. She argues that it was a question of style to do the fermentation outside of the caratelli. The 1985 vintage was amazing with good freshness for its age and notes of honey, maquis, medicinal herbs, spices such as cinnamon, dried fruit, panforte, almond, a smoky touch, and more. Combined with its tannins, grip, and an unforgettable experience to sip on this Vin Santo. The 1996 was better on the palate than on the nose with hints of volatile alcohol, but still, a good Vin Santo.